Who would have predicted that the South of France would be colder and rainier than the England we left behind? Nonetheless, we had a pleasant, low-key week at the Limousin–Dordogne border. We stayed in a gîte at Le Moulin de Pensol, a complex run by an English couple who keep horses, donkeys and chickens but are otherwise rewilding their land (similar to the Wild Finca project we visited in Spain two years ago). Their site is known for butterflies, including multiple almost indistinguishable fritillary species, so there was plenty of insect and bird watching for my husband in brief bursts of sunshine between showers. When it was too wet to go out, we played board games, drank wine and read books.

However, we did manage a few short outings: the Trou de Philippou gorge; a peek at a Saturday morning repair café (I’m a volunteer doing admin and publicity for our local repair café, which started in February) and its “recyclerie” charity shop in a nearby village; and St-Jean-de-Côle, “one of the loveliest villages in the Dordogne” according to the Rough Guide. We were taken by the main square’s church, castle and screaming swift parties – so much bigger than back home – which we’d likewise watched circling the château in the attractive medieval town of Saumur on the Loire, where we stopped for a night on the way down. There were also fresh cheeses and produce, including the most delicious strawberries ever (the “Charlotte” variety), from the two closest markets. Piégut’s is the largest market in southwest France but we had to use our imaginations as the downpour kept plenty of sellers away.

Le Trou de Philippou. Photo by Chris Foster.

The highlight of the trip was a visit to Grotte de Villars, a cave network with spectacular stalactites and stalagmites. Less well known than Lascaux, which is now inaccessible to visitors except via a reproduction, it too has prehistoric cave paintings of horses and bison, and 20,000-year-old bear claw marks. The paintings are gradually disappearing behind the constant calcite-creating drips; I pondered whether they will vanish before the human race does. We were lucky to find it so quiet that we got a private English-language tour. Proprietors were also so kind as to speak English to us when we shopped at a nano-brewery and did a tasting at a cider and calvados producer in Normandy on our way back to the ferry. Otherwise, we muddled through with the bare minimum of French at shops and eateries.

My other highlight was finding two Little Free Libraries, a walk-in one that we happened to pass in Saint-Martin-l’Ars on our initial drive down south and another in Abjat-sur-Bandiat. I felt slightly bad about taking a book at the first because of its insistence on returning or replacing once you’d read it, so I made up for it by donating Cold Spring Harbor to the book exchange box in Abjat when we returned to its crêperie for our one meal out of the holiday.

What I Read

Slammerkin by Emma Donoghue (2000): A slammerkin was, in eighteenth-century parlance, a loose gown or a loose woman. Donoghue was inspired by the bare facts about Mary Saunders, a historical figure. In her imagining, Mary is thrown out by her family at age 14 and falls into prostitution in London. Within a couple of years, she decides to reform her life by becoming a dressmaker’s assistant in her mother’s hometown of Monmouth, but her past won’t let her go. The close third person narration shifts to depict the constrained lives of the other women in the household: the mistress, Mrs Jones, who has lost multiple children and pregnancies; governess Mrs Ash, whose initial position as a wet nurse was her salvation after her husband left her; and Abi, an enslaved Black woman. This was gripping throughout, like a cross between Alias Grace and The Crimson Petal and the White. The only thing that had me on the back foot was that, it being Donoghue, I expected lesbianism. (Secondhand purchase – Awesomebooks.com)

Paris Trance by Geoff Dyer (1998): Only my second novel from Dyer, an annoyingly talented author who writes whatever he wants, in any genre, inimitably. This reminded me of Jeff in Venice, Death in Varanasi for its hedonistic travels. Luke and Alex, twentysomething Englishmen, meet as factory workers in Paris and quickly become best mates. With their girlfriends, Nicole and Sahra, they form what seems an unbreakable quartet. The couples carouse, dance in nightclubs high on ecstasy, and have a lot of sex. A bit more memorable are their forays outside the city for Christmas and the summer. The first-person plural perspective resolves into a narrator who must have fantasized the other couple’s explicit sex scenes; occasional flash-forwards reveal that only one pair is destined to last. This is nostalgic for the heady days of youth in the same way as Sweetbitter. I was intrigued to learn that random lines were sampled from Fiesta; though it is lad lit, I wouldn’t have expected a Hemingway homage from the style. (Secondhand purchase – Awesomebooks.com)

Sanctuary in the South: The Cats of Mas des Chats by Margaret Reinhold (1993): Reinhold (still alive at 96?!) is a South African psychotherapist who relocated from London to Provence, taking her two cats with her and eventually adopting another eight, many of whom had been neglected by owners in the vicinity. This sweet and meandering book of vignettes about her pets’ interactions and hierarchy is generally light in tone, but with the requisite sadness you get from reading about animals ageing, falling ill or meeting with accidents, and (in two cases) being buried on the property. “Les chats sont difficiles,” as a local shop owner observes to her. But would we cat lovers have it any other way? Reinhold often imagines what her cats would say to her. Like Doreen Tovey, whose books this closely resembles, she is as fascinated by human foibles as by feline antics. One extended sequence concerns her doomed attempts to hire a live-in caretaker for the cats. She never learned her lesson about putting a proper contract in place; several chancers tried the role and took advantage of her kindness. (Secondhand purchase – Community Furniture Project)

Why Willows Weep: Contemporary Tales from the Woods, ed. Tracy Chevalier and Simon Prosser (2011): These 19 short fictions, rather like Rudyard Kipling’s Just-So Stories, imagine how certain tree species developed their particular characteristics. I wasn’t expecting the fable setup and probably would have preferred a miscellany of essays and various fictional approaches. However, there is a run of great stories in the middle: from Susan Elderkin on “How the Blackthorn Got Its Flowers” to Terence Blacker on “Why Elms Die Young.” The stand-outs for me were by Rachel Billington and Maria McCann. It was a cute touch to have each author’s mini-bio end with their favourite tree, except, um, bamboo isn’t one (it’s a giant grass). I’ll probably keep this for the randomness of where I found it and the Leanne Shapton illustrations. (Secondhand purchase – La Monnerie recyclerie)

And the first two-thirds of Daughters of the House by Michèle Roberts (1993): Thérèse and Léonie are cousins: the one French and the other English but making visits to her relatives in Normandy every summer. In the slightly forbidding family home, the adolescent girls learn about life, loss and sex. Each short chapter is named after a different object in the house. That Thérèse seems slightly otherworldly can be attributed to her inspiration, which Roberts reveals in a prefatory note: Saint Thérèse, aka The Little Flower. Roberts reminds me of A.S. Byatt and Shena Mackay; her work is slightly austere and can be slow going, but her ideas always draw me in. (Secondhand – Newbury charity shop)

A DNF: Claudine at School by Colette (a free download), which was dull and in way too small a print on my e-reader.

Plus portions of: various e-books for paid reviews, two May review books, and several library books including Moominpappa at Sea by Tove Jansson and The Invention of Hugo Cabret by Brian Selznick.

Appropriate reading at sea

Cider haul! Photos by Chris Foster.

I’m happy to be home with my cat and canal, the two things I miss most when we’re away.