I wouldn’t want to be in Paris right now – continental Europe is far too hot in high summer and in recent years the UK has been following suit – but I am having such fun travelling there through books. I have a fantastic stack of Paris-set novels and memoirs on the go, perfect for sinking into on long afternoons and evenings while I hide from the second round of the heat wave in our relatively cool lounge. These first four selections were corkers! I mostly read them earlier: in May, or across several years, or started in January but only just finished. And what a treat they all were: an epic yet intimate queer romance, two auto/fiction hybrids about making a life as an unconventional woman, and a tour through Paris food, district by district.

Almost Life by Kiran Millwood Hargrave (2026)

There has been homoerotic content in Hargrave’s previous fiction for adults, but this is a full-blown queer love story that, with its time span (1978 to 2013) and heft, feels momentous, like a future classic. Erica is an earnest 18-year-old tourist experiencing Paris before starting at UEA. She meets Laure, an older, cynical Sorbonne art history student, on the steps of the Sacré-Coeur: drawn to her not just because they’re reading the same book (A Lover’s Discourse by Roland Barthes) but also because Laure looks so perfectly Parisian there in a louche sprawl, smoking a cigarette. Laure is a confirmed lesbian, whereas Erica was previously straight. It’s coup de foudre for sure. Laure has been with many women, including married ones, but what she feels for Erica is different, and Erica leaving at the end of the summer is such a blow that her problem drinking gets out of control.

Comparisons with One Day by David Nicholls are inescapable what with the structure of jumping ahead by a few years with each section, although I’d argue that this is more similar to The Versions of Us by Laura Barnett and The Heart’s Invisible Furies by John Boyne. Hargrave’s close third-person narration alternates between her two protagonists and occasionally documents their interactions, though they keep missing their chance to be together. On two occasions Erica doesn’t write or visit when she should; twice they resume their love affair and could have gotten back together, but by then one or both has another partner. (Erica marries a Creative Writing MA classmate and they have two daughters.) The social context is important: they lose a dear friend to the AIDS crisis and Hargrave carefully bookends the action to show an advance in LGBTQ rights: early on, the characters are caught up in an attack on a gay bar in 1978; in the last pages, France legalizes same-sex marriage.

Thirty-five years is a long time in any relationship, but Erica and Laure’s is repeatedly strained by absence and perceived betrayals. They each, separately, go through a lot, including bereavements, addiction, mental health issues, and career disappointments. I thought the novel might have a speculative element, contrasting their potential life together with their divergent trajectories. In fact, only in one brief instance does Hargrave offer an alternative version of how things might have gone. Instead, the focus is on moments when fear or negligence stopped one of them from reaching out. I quibbled with a few seeming anachronisms and errors but overall found this delicious, touching, and even strangely close to home sometimes. Paris itself is a star, its museums, bars, and streets a perfect backdrop; Monet’s gardens and the Norfolk coast are appealing settings, too. This was a sweet, sexy, sobering read I can wholeheartedly recommend. (Public library)

A linking passage:

“They went together to the Père-Lachaise and Erica pulled a button off her shirt to put on Gertrude Stein’s grave. Laure was amazed she knew Tender Buttons but not that Gertrude Stein had loved a woman. She did not want to be the lesbian prophet to this girl, but she could not help herself.”

My Year in Paris with Gertrude Stein: A Fiction by Deborah Levy (2026)

“Gertrude Stein said that’s enough. (I know that that’s not enough now.)”

~from “Roseability” by Idlewild – enjoy the c. 2000 Scottish punk!

Here’s the good news: You don’t need to know anything – or particularly care – about Gertrude Stein to enjoy this. Even not having read any Stein, just having read about her, it was clear to me that the style is an homage in places (repetition, scant punctuation). But where Stein’s is famously cryptic, Levy’s prose is crystal-clear as usual. There’s a gauzy fictional storyline in which the narrator is wrestling with an inchoate essay about Gertrude Stein. (Rather like Geoff Dyer trying to write about D.H. Lawrence in Out of Sheer Rage.) She has two close friends: Eva is a graphic novelist with an international background, currently separated from a husband back in Seattle; Fanny is a polyamorous French lesbian who works in finance and, no matter the topic, tells it like it is. A mystery of sorts arises in the form of Eva’s lost cat, Bob. Fanny has heard about a cat found drowned in the canal and they later meet a Frenchman whose cat was stolen. (It’s unclear whether it’s all one and the same cat.)

Cute American cover (though the British one is probably more apt).

The narrator alternates between this minor intrigue, biographical fragments about Stein, and her struggle to know how to capture her subject in words. Stein was brought up in a German Jewish household in Pennsylvania and failed her medical school exams at Johns Hopkins. In Paris she lived with Alice B. Toklas as she pleased, without apology: an artist’s muse, intellectual and author inspired by “early psychology and cubism.” Levy clearly admires Stein for pushing the boundaries of literature and of life, paving the way for so many. I wasn’t sure that the ‘story’, such as it is, matters here, or at least not as much as the biography and pastiche. Levy is very much in Ali Smith territory here. In any case, I found it playful, sophisticated and beguiling. There are so many plainly put but brilliant lines:

“Stein put her immense writing energies into making sure she was not understood. This is what interested me most about her writing. She did not believe it is worth having a conversation if everything is understandable.”

“Every century needs an artist to dismantle coherence as we have been taught it and make a space for something new to happen.”

I have a copy of The Autobiography of Alice B. Toklas that I’m going to attempt soon…

(Public library)

Real Estate by Deborah Levy (2021)

I’m not sure why it took me so long to read the final volume of Levy’s so-called Living Autobiography. I started it in August 2022: perfect timing because that was the year we bought our first house. But I left it part-read on a shelf until April. It’s not my favourite of the trilogy – that’s The Cost of Living, which is perfect – but I appreciated it a lot more than Things I Don’t Want to Know, which felt forced. Levy paints her life as restless, nomadic; to an extent, she likes it that way. She flits between London and Paris, attends a literary festival in India and takes an extended holiday in Greece. At age 60, single and with adult daughters, she doesn’t have to answer to anyone. Yet she longs for a home of her own – a deep sense of fulfilment that perhaps can’t be bought along with a piece of property. Is it a paradox to desire grounding but also freedom? That’s the main question that Levy explores here, and you can see why Stein would become a model for her (Leonora Carrington is another in this book). “It seemed to me all over again that in every phase of living we do not have to conform to the way our life has been written for us, especially by those who are less imaginative than ourselves.” This is incredibly quotable, and really a perfect book for every woman of a certain age as we come to resemble our mothers and ponder how to go on constructing ourselves through words and relationships.

to think and feel and live and love more freely is the point of life

So then, now that I was a sixty-year-old female character, both unwritten and constantly rewriting the script, what did I value, own, discard and bequeath?

Levy has an enviable talent for simplicity and clarity, but simultaneous impact and meaning. I’d be lucky to ever write anything autobiographical that has half as much elegance and power as her work. (New purchase – Amazon?)

Moveable Feasts: A Story of Paris in Twenty Meals by Chris Newens (2025)

Newens, an English journalist, grew up working in his family bakery and tea rooms, so knew of the hard labour and long, early hours that daily food preparation requires. He’d lived in Paris for a decade when he decided that his strategy for getting a broader understanding of his adopted city would be through its cuisine. Arrondissement by arrondissement, he explores culinary landmarks and famous dishes, choosing one recipe from each to recreate in his kitchen. Some of these are familiar French staples such as croissants, crêpes, macarons, a goat’s cheese salad and tartiflette. Others aren’t so much a recipe as a serving suggestion: fresh oysters, an omelette with no ingredients beyond 3 eggs, pre-packaged escargots. Tourist food can be good or terrible, depending on where you go.

To get beyond clichés and give an accurate portrait of Paris, Newens realized, it’s essential to include ethnic dishes such as banh mi, couscous, falafel, kebabs (made of equal parts lamb belly and turkey thigh meat) and meen puyabaisse (a Tamil-fusion fish stew – A Waiter in Paris taught me that many of the city’s food service workers are from Sri Lanka) to reflect the many immigrant cultures that call Paris home. To mix things up, he sometimes strays from the usual format of meeting with restaurant staff and learning a dish from them. One chapter is an elegy for the family friend through whom he first discovered French food. In others he is surprised by the delicious/awful fare on offer at a Paris soup kitchen/sex club. Ultimately, he concludes that what sets the food in France apart, no matter the cuisine in question, is the quality of the produce, so his final trip is to Rungis, the largest produce market in the world, which supplies most of Paris’s food needs at some times of year. He then ties it all together by hosting a picnic where guests cook one of his 20 recipes to bring.

This is the best sort of armchair travelling, where you get to experience the deliciousness and excitement vicariously and can be relieved that you’ve avoided all the inconvenient or embarrassing realities of interviewing strangers. I also learned a fair bit about the different districts’ personalities and how tradition meets modernity in French food. Food is a daily chance at pleasure and I just love reading about it (even though I don’t cook). Newens won a Jane Grigson Trust Award for New Food and Drink Writers, and with his curiosity and sense of humour it’s easy to see why. (Read via Edelweiss)